Epinephrine with Danger, Max, and Issac

Epinephrine Group Pic


One Week Pre- Trip

Danger decides that we should climb Epinephrine.  I agree.  I excitedly tell my roommate and bud Issac.  He must climb it too.We painfully wake up pre-dawn.  I hastily pack a second headlamp and force down some stale cheese-its and join Issac and Danger in the Fuggin’ Honda.  I slept all the way there and spaced out for most of the approach so it seemed like I just arrived at Epinephrine.

Pitch 1

There were let a group go in front of us because they seemed like the kind of people that we wouldn’t see again after the first pitch.  Suspicion confirmed when the leader confidently skipped a high first bolt.  Issac climbed the scary slabby first pitch like a boss.

Epinephrine Approach Trail

Pitch 2

I took forever leading the second pitch.  There was one spot where I could not find anywhere to place gear on a short chimney pitch that should have been easy.  I finally found a nut placement and made it to the bolted anchors.  I looked down at my harness to discover… my belay device was gone!

The night before I had seen Danger tie a knot called the “Munter hitch“.  I tied it, tested it a few times and shouted down, “Danger, come on up!”  I’m just realizing right now how confusing that might be for the uninitiated to hear someone yell…  Anyway, Danger climbs half way up and calls up to me, “I found your belay device! What are you belaying me with?”  I told him that he was fine.

Danger joins me on a small ledge and says, “How did you manage to lose your belay device ya dupe?” Danger is preparing to belay Issac up.  I look over the edge and see an unnatural shiny green object hurtle off the cliff.  I ask Danger, ” Was that your belay device?” It was his belay device.  I have a good long laugh and Danger belays Issac up with a Munter hitch.  Issac climbs up and we see that he has Danger’s belay device clipped to his gear loop.  Turns out that it miraculously landed on a tiny ledge within arms reach.

Pitches 3-5?

Danger lead the hardest chimney pitches.  5.9 chimneys are hard! You must struggle and scrape your body along sandpaper sandstone until you are completely exhausted then look down at your six inches of progress and be pleased.

This is a chimney. It is smooth like glass but will also tear your clothes somehow.

This is a chimney. It is smooth like glass but will also tear your clothes somehow.





Struggle, struggle. struggle.

Struggle, struggle. struggle.

Nice belay ledge

Nice belay ledge

gettin’ dark…

gettin' dark...

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Pitches 5-7?

We made it to the top of a formation called the dark tower.  Which contained all the hardest pitches.  Unfortunately it was getting dark and we needed a way down.  Headlamps became necessary when Issac lead a slabby run out pitch that we thought would put us in an easily rappel-able section.

Dark Pitch

Issac climbs up to the first bolt and a good amount of feet past it.  Issac couldn’t find the next bolt and was starting to pump out in a near decking zone.  Suddenly, Issac yells, “Ahhhh! (Danger cranks down his belay device) I’ve found a bolt!”  Danger and I realize that we were not breathing.  Issac climbed up and clipped a few bolts that Danger and I didn’t see and cuts feet on an overhang.  This ordinarily would have been poor technique but our legs were destroyed from the chimney pitches and we had a lot more trust in our arms.

Danger and I climb up to Issac and do a short traverse pitch.  We see some webbing tied to a rock.  We decided that people must rappel from here.   I am the lightest so I rapped down first because I am the tiniest man and would be the easiest to haul back up if I ended up on a blank face.

Turns out we weren’t where we thought we were but I found some permanent anchors anyway.  Although,  when Issac and Danger came down and we tried to pull the rope through it got stuck immediately.  We struggled to get the rope down for at least half an hour and seriously considered sleeping on a cold hanging belay in a deafening wind.  Finally the rope came down.  For the next rappel Danger tied a Euro death knot Patagonia knot and the rope didn’t get stuck again.

After some difficulty finding permanent anchors we reach the bottom of the route around 12:30AM.  I was pretty tired and delirious f0r the hike out.  We arrived in Vegas around 1:30AM and had ourselves some fun times with good friends until around 5AM.

 The Day After

There was much sleeping the next day.  We slept in a hot tub.  We slept in a frozen yogurt shop for about 4 hours.  Best yogurt shop ever.  We smelled terrible and we were obnoxious and then we fell asleep.  No one bothered us or asked us to leave.  One lady did ask to take a picture of us because we were so ridiculous. Here’s the address.

U Swirl Frozen Yogurt 7595 West Washington Avenue #110, Las Vegas, NV

Everyone should go to there.

First we sleep.

First we sleep.

Bike Trip- Missouri to New Hampshire “Bench Test”

If you are a busy individual read only the bolded text.

On Thursday I was looking up how much an Amtrak ticket from Missouri to New Hampshire would cost to visit my friends.  138 dollars. One way.  36 hours.  Quickly, I plugged the route into Google maps and noticed that the trip was only 1300 miles.  I decided that 138 dollars was quite a ridiculous.  Then I noticed that Google maps had a bike mode…

I needed to know if I had the juice to bike 100 miles a day for 13 days.  Bear in mind that I do not even own a bike and the longest bike trip was to 4.5 miles to a lake with the water-ski people and 4.5 miles back (9 miles).

What I needed was some sort of small scale experiment.  I asked my bud Hogan Sills, biking aficionado, if he could get me a bike from one of the Purdue bike club people.   He agreed to vouch for me.  Friday rolls around and Hogan tells me that someone wants let me borrow a bike.  I show up at the Bike Haus to clam my bike.  I learned that Hogan did not vouch for me.  I gathered that the bike people were told something like this, “ya… this guy wants to ride 100 miles tomorrow, he’s really out of shape and either quit after 30 miles or destroy your bike.”

I received “the pink bike” which at first inspection seemed nicer than anything I expected to get.  I prepared a back pack full of trail mix and water and set out at the crack of 8:30am Saturday morning.

I got lost on campus, missed the first turn, and ended up at the Purdue airport.  I back tracked to IN-26.  My butt hurts already.  At this point it started to rain.  I could have easily made it back to my place to get a rain jacket.  I figured that the rain would stop soon.  My first mistake.

At 11:30am it finally stopped raining, my cotton button-up shirt and synthetic blue pants were soaked.  At this point two people had asked me if I “needed a ride someplace.”  My sunglasses were broken from a previous rock climbing trip and needed to be duct taped to my face.  The rain adversely affected the duct tape and my glasses kept falling off.  I take a break, eat a soggy bagel and press on to Independence, IN.

In Independence I see this really neat car… motorcycle… thing.  It was like a VW Bug rear ended a motorcycle with cartoon physics and they melded together.  Here’s a picture.

The owner of this unique transportation device saw me standing in his front lawn taking pictures of his stuff.  He shouted, “What are you doin’!  From behind his screen door.  We ended up talking for a half hour about his Kawasaki-bug.  The conversation ended abruptly when he walked back inside.  I guess that meant I was supposed to get off of his lawn.

Not too far past Independence, IN I get to a poorly paved road called Possum Hollow.  It is apparently reserved for slow disabled children.  All fast disabled children must play somewhere else. On in the slow disabled child area there lives a vicious dog that bit me in the pants.  I did have an alluring strip of shiny silver duct tape on my ankle though so I was asking for it.  Being a very slow bikesman I did not attempt to outrun the dog.  I got off my bike and yelled at it.  It was undeterred.  Next, I did not punch it but instead I kind of fist pushed it in the face.  It then left be alone.  I thought about trying to get a picture of it but then came to my senses.

I get off of the badly paved road and out of the disabled slow children area and onto a nice paved road.  I immediately get a flat tire.  I checked my severely zoomed out Google maps printout and figured that Independence and Attica were the 2 closest places that would have bike tires.  I chose Attica, IN.  Attica was at least 7 miles away.

Along the way I realized that I did not really need a new tire, I just needed something to keep the rims off the ground.  I collected rubber straps off the side of the road that I hoped I could secure to the rims to form a makeshift tire if Attica did not pan out.

I finally make it to Attica after 2 0r 3 hours of walking.

I see some off-brand big box store called a Pamida and push my bike through the automatic doors and park it in the sporting goods section.  I realized that all of the bike products in the store were not made to be compatible with the pink bike.  I guess that the pink bike must have been made in Europe or some other weird country.  The bike tires, bike pumps, and fix-a-flat kits were all incompatible with my stupid pink bike.


First, I need a way to inflate the tire.  After much trial and error I found that wrapping tape around the tire nozzle and pressure fitting it to the standard mountain bike pump was the best way to get at least some air into the tire.  Next, I needed to fix the hole.  I found a mountain bike patch kit that was made to handle maybe half the psi’s that the pink bike requires to keep the rims off the ground.  I tried two patches and they both blew off immediately.  I got a grill cleaning tool from the Home and Garden section to abrade the rubber and create a better surface for the patch to adhere to.  It worked.  The tire held air!

I then learned that it is almost impossible to get the tube and tire back on the wheel after you take them off.  There must be some trick to it that I don’t know about.  A pair of pliers and screw driver from the hardware section and about 20 min of struggling got the tire back on.  I walked the bike to the checkout aisle and told the lady that I broke a screwdriver and used a patch kit.  She charged me 5 dollars.  Now it is 3:30pm and I am 30 miles from Purdue.

The tire holds for maybe 20 miles before it blows out again.  It is only 5:00pm and I figure that I can walk the rest of the way back to Purdue along IN-26 before 9:00pm.

At 7:30pm John the Landscaper asked if I was going to Purdue.  I wrote down his license plate number and had a text to 9-11 ready to go… just in case.  He turned out to be cool and dropped me off at Wiley Dining Court.

Then I ate at Jimmy Johns and went to a party.  I got tired and left at 12:30am.  The next day I felt a little sore but not too bad.

I learned that is certainly physically possible for me to ride 100 miles a day.  It is possible to ride from Missouri to New Hampshire in 13 days.  If I get lucky and no one hires me I will definitely attempt this journey in May.

Road-trip Video Summaries

Tightly Edited Accounts of Our Budget Road-trip Travel Experience

Days 1 and 2

From Missouri to Badlands National Park


  • Crazy lady in a “Corn Palace” (must see to believe)
  • Flying my UAV over a canyon (FPV non-functional for entire trip :(
  • Getting lost (surprisingly fun bonding experience)

Day 3-5

Badlands to Mount Rushmore to Salt Lake City Utah


  • Almost getting stranded on a mountain top
  • “the cowman”
  • Stupid and disappointing Mt. Rushmore
  • Kate laughing like a crazy person

Day 5-6

Antelope Island to Bonneville Salt flats to sketch Great Basin campsite


  • Eating heavy metal infused eggs
  • The Great Walmart Fiasco
  • Bonneville Salt flats minivan speed challenge
  • Unlimited amounts of Horchata
  • Cowman explained
  • Lots of inside jokes no internet people will understand

Day 7-8

Great Basin to Zion National Park to California


  • Evil Squirrels
  • Jurassic Park theme song
  • Kate gets cranky
  • “Coral Pink” sand dunes
  • Successful breakfast creation
  • Slack-lining
  • Zion National Park Experience

Roof Care Tricks To Keep Your Roof In Tip Top Condition

Everybody knows how important it’s to have a roof overhead that is good. Your roof shields the remainder of your house helps keep your house cool or hold in heat, adds value to your own house and gives you and your family a healthier, more joyful spot to dwell. The initial step in keeping your roof in top state is spending some time scrutinizing your roof twice in autumn and the spring, and after major storms. The bi yearly reviews should be done both on outside and the inside of the roof. After thunderstorm reviews should be done on gouges from flying debris, to ensure that there’s no broken tiles, or the outside of the roof. Reviews should be done with using a ladder or binoculars.

During your roof reviews make note of any trees growing close to roof and your house. These should be trimmed back if healthy if there are branches. Additionally, falling branches can gouge damage roofing tiles and the roof. You happen to be protecting your roof by utilizing preventative measures before they can do damage by cutting those branches. In addition, you should clean all the debris out of your roof at least twice annually. Pine needles, leaves, soil and other debris can cause mildew and mold to grow in your roof and cause other damage too. By keeping your roof free of debris you helping to not only to appear better and are removing the prospect of damage to your own roof, but stay in the finest state possible.

Black spots in your roof is an indication of mildew and mold. Overtime mold cause damage and can work it’s way itself. If you’ve got a fresh roof that’s free from mold and mildew, putting zinc strips at the top of your roof can lead to zinc washing the strips each time it rains off and preventing mold and mildew. Then clean the mold from your roof using a mold remover especially made and attaching zinc strips if you’ve got an old roof that’s started to model. A lot of people make the error of believing that one shingle that is lost, or damaged roofing tile actually is not going to damage anything. This could not be less true. If you need to keep your roof then you certainly should replace tiles and those shingles that become damaged. Your roof to endure lots of damage can be allowed by a little corner. Thus keep tiles and additional shingles available and learn the proper method to fix them should the need arise.

Assess all the areas where roof sealant can be used and if the sealant is showing signs of deterioration for example fractures or missing bits that are small then reapply sealant that is fresh and you must clear all the old sealant away. Make sure you replace that mortar that’s damaged and assess for cracked or missing mortar in your chimney. The mortar is what holds the chimney bricks in position and should a brick drop it result in your losing your heat can do great damage to your own roof in addition to an inopportune time.

You’ve got great insulating material and if you reside in a location that gets significant snowfall subsequently snow will surely be pile through to roof. Snow cause damage to your own roof in the extra weight and can be incredibly significant. Professionals repair them before they are going to be noticeable for you and can see possible problems. By following these simple care suggestions, you simply may find your roof outlasts the guarantee by two, three, or even 5 years and can keep your roof in tip top condition for a long time. Ensure you get all the appropriate tools and advice if you determine to perform roof care yourself. Lost roof review measures that are significant could cause structural damage and moisture build-up. Learn more at Millennium Roofs website.

The Hitchhiker’s Guide to Chiropractors

Chiropractic is the study of the musculoskeletal system, focusing on spinal column and the spinal column, with the aim of treating not merely your system for motion and the body’s ailments. Chiropractors are those who understand this artwork. It’s a study rooted both in the historical understanding of healing and medicinal practices of world that is previous but also in the excellent new wave of methodical scientific knowledge, whether we do good or sick with it, now coming. In most cases, chiropractor is a venerable title on earth up to now, even likely and now onwards to some span. They’re masters of hip pain and advertising, back, and treating a host of ailments that are vague that individuals that are several can not pronounce. Beyond that, many describe their encounter with this strain as, “agreeable, great,” or some fine thing that way.

If you’ve often got sore muscles or joints, see a Chiropractor Lee’s Summit. A chiropractor would be a sound investment in your health, well-being, and fiscal security, if you are already associated with lots of extreme physical work, occupation related or otherwise. In a minimum of one quantitative study, it’s been found as a matter of fact that insurance companies can spend less with their customers see a chiropractor for back pain as an alternative to a medical doctor. There are benefits from seeing a chiropractor which you should be alert to some potential negative turnouts.

Through seeing an inexperienced and unqualified chiropractor, some individuals have experienced increased joint pain and maybe even paralysis. Mathematically, the percent likelihood of you having a chiropractic visit that is lousy is not very high, and within that little percent of poor encounters is numerous patients or repeat offenders with other complicating variables, making the greatest quantity of poor chiropractors lower. Use your own judgment and the guidance of others and this post to see if their practice is valid and how much your chiropractor understands. Question them about other customers’ encounters, seek them and inquire by what techniques they use especially to ensure you are comfy with and consent with their systems. Take into account that the chiropractor that is young or inexperienced isn’t automatically a bad pick as a greatly seasoned and formerly gifted chiropractor just isn’t always an excellent selection. Look for someone who’s calm, assured, and welcoming but not overly excited.

Chiropractors are trained under two fundamental schools of thought and in a number of different abilities, like spinal manipulation, massage technology, and advertising. The practices are usually considerably more down to Earth. They may include acupuncture, acupressure (typically, using a thumb or finger as an alternative to a needle), hot bulbs or stone, specific herbal treatments, trance like meditation, and massage in general. On the end that is fabulous, they may use a hands off curing technique and body heat.

The school that is second includes the utilization of measurement devices and fantastic machines . These “socials” adopt the practice and firm, empiric study of modern medicine, though they also may question the title of ‘Most Enlightened Chiropractic School’ since they frequently integrate specific massage techniques straights may additionally use. The fundamental notion behind their school of thought is when the center of the structure of the body, the back if you’ll, is not strong, then automatically this weakness places more heavy stress on the the rest of the body which, consequently, may also become weakened. Supporting the well-being of the back will cause an all around more powerful and more energetic musculoskeletal system, but it will cause a sharper head and fitter organs through the entire body due to a more rapid flow of cerebrospinal fluid and more appropriate alignment of the spinal column without blockages as you go along. It is necessary to notice they generally reject the notion of vertebral subluxation completely.

Great chiropractors work to promptly sooth that pain while working out the kinks in my personal framework, that might or might not be near the throbbing place, which are causing the damage and would ask me where my pain was found. Chiropractors that are great would also ask me about how I lifted heavy things, how much physical action I perform per day, how much I run and walk, how I sit, or quite a few other questions associated with body alignment and bearings. These chiropractors that are ideal would then instruct me the best way to change this to be able to supply the best physical harmony in movement. Great chiropractors would additionally urge more visits to a health professional that is connected or them if I needed additional consideration. Chiropractors that are great may advocate a regular visit to make certain latent issues or corrections that are previous are not turning sour. Chiropractors that are great would guide me on work out and massage gear that I should invest in, and tell me on the marketplace about the most cozy and relaxing lounge chairs and beds for me.

This guide considers when you’ve got pain, impairment, and disorder associated with the musculoskeletal system, get a chiropractor. Chiropractors are proven to be more efficient than regular physicians in their own particular medical market at a lower price with less visits. It is like picking between an all around sportsman and an Olympic sprinter to educate you on the best way to run. Under a risk versus increase evaluation, your life stands to enhance in well-being and relaxation for a decent price and time dedication. If you’ve got other ailments, see a a regular physician or other medical staff that are special, but who knows? Perhaps, what you want most in life is simply a more powerful anchor.

What is Orthodontics & Who’s an Orthodontist?

Orthodontics is the dental specialty which concentrates on the correct alignment of jaws and the teeth. “Ortho” means right and “dont” means teeth. So orthodontics is the right alignment of the teeth. The specialty of orthodontics within the dental area was the first recognized specialization within the dental area and has been around for well over a hundred years.

Orthodontists are also specialists in dento-facial orthopedics. This means that an orthodontist from Norman, Oklahoma has expertise not only in the right alignment of the jaws, but also in aligning the teeth. A man may have what looks like teeth that are straight, but the jaws don’t line up correctly. A sting difficulty can exist that can result in tooth or gum harm if the jaws are out of sync with each other.

Orthodontists are first trained as dentists. After dental school they attend added full time training for two to three years to become a specialist in orthodontics. Less that 6 percent of dentists are certified orthodontists. Cannot state that they’re an orthodontist, although a general dentist can perform orthodontics for people. For a list of competent certified orthodontists in your town, you are able to see the American Association of Orthodontists web site at http://www.braces.org. There is a link that may give you the information to locate a qualified orthodontist locally.

It really is estimated that 40 to 75 percent of the people could take advantage of orthodontic treatment. Some may get treatment as a youngster, while many others seek treatment as adults. Grownups are often interested in the appearance of the teeth and smile. Adult patients frequently have more comprehensive concerns and the orthodontist will work closely to provide the best treatment possible. In the instance of missing teeth, occasionally the orthodontist can close the space, but frequently it’s better to keep the space open, align the teeth accurately around the space and have the patient’s general dentist place an implant or make a bridge to fill the gap.

Orthodontic treatment provides significant value to individuals with bite issues. An investment in orthodontic treatment can alter a person’s life, how they feel about themselves, how others feel about them. And although orthodontic treatment can appear expensive, the benefits really outweigh the costs with time.

Baboquivari: A Danger and Max Adventure

It was my last weekend in Arizona before I was once again banished to the Midwest.  Something epic needed to be attempted.  Danger suggested Baboquivari, “This one looks like it’s going to be way over our heads.”  ”Perfect,” says I.

We decided to do the Eastern approach and climb the Southeast Arete.  So we drove to basically Mexico and met some boarder patrol guys in in the middle of the night.

By epsilon
Nov 27, 2002
The most important thing to know is how to pronounce the name Baboquivari. It’s bad enough that you’re traipsing around on O’odham creator I’itoi’s sacred domain. To be making gringo mispronunciations within earshot of the Man himself isn’t going improve your chances of making it back to the camp by nightfall. I believe the correct stress is on the KEE syllable. It is _Bab – oh – KEE – var – ee_, not _Bab – oh – kee – VAR – ee_. It’s said like _den-of-thievery_, not like _bought-a-Ferrari_* or _shot o’ Bacardi_.

“Descending from the summit of ‘Babo’ can be notoriously epic. It is customary to bring a small gift to the summit to appease I’itoi. This, and some detailed beta, should help greatly with the descent.”

Our Adventure

We took a different dirt road than the one in the approach instructions but miraculously ended up at the Baboquivari “trail-head”.  The eastern approach seemed to have had a trail sometime in the 60′s but now its completely overgrown and non-existent for at least 3/4 of the way.  Next time I’m going to take the Western Approach since it took us about 6 hours to fight our way through a jungle filled with a great variety of thorny plants and cacti.

The approach was way more sketchy than the actual climb.  We ended up roping up at several points.  Although we were off route if there was indeed a route to be off of.

At one point treacherous fourth class scrambling turned into treacherous fifth class climbing.  We continued for a while before becoming too sketched out and decided to rappel.  During the rappel setup procedure one end of the rope became looped around a boulder the size of a coffee table.  We tried to tug the rope free and the boulder jumped from the cliff and fell on our rope named “Lagarto” severing him in two places.  The largest piece was about 120 feet.

Cut Rope! I’m going to write an angry letter to sterling because their rope could not withstand 100lb boulders dropped from 40ft.

We get scared and decide to rappel. Note scared face. This was probably the low point of the trip.  Even though neither of us mentioned bailing we were both thinking it.  We ate some candy and decided that we could probably make it to the summit before nightfall.  We considered doing an easier route but eventually decided that we were going to press on and do the SE Arete route anyway.

Drinkin’ from the bucket. We finally made it to the lion’s ledge and came across a bucket that was collecting a trickle of water flowing from the rock.  I realized that the green water need to be drunk.  It tasted like delicious minty tea.

Post tea we found what we thought we found the start of the route and I climbed a chossy crack that turned out to be pretty neat.  Danger informed me that we were off route; but thanks to the Baboquivari mountain god, I’itoi there was a kind ledge that took us 50ft to our climb.

Around this point a dense cloud bank moved in around Baboquivari, visibility was around 15ft.  Climbing in a cloud is a super surreal experience.  It is like being on another planet or different dimension.

The hardest move, for me anyway, was a kind of pull up move with minimal feet right above a belay station before any gear can be placed.  I hate possible anchor falls.  Danger lead the crux pitch and used up our entire 120ft rope, all the cams we brought, and half the nuts.  Since our rope was short we ended up turning six pitches into about 8 or nine.

 It was dark when we reached the summit and there was no way that we were going to make itdown that night.  We ended up breaking out some emergency blankets that we found (thank you kind leavers of emergency supplies) and making a small fire.  It was a little cold that night but I slept better than I usually do.

We left our offering of a fine red wine stored in a painstakingly cleaned hot sauce bottle to I’itoi and began the descent. The descent turned out to be not that bad.  We sort of knew where we were going.  The rappels were not too difficult to find and we ended up getting back to the car before we suspected that we would.

Then we met up with our friend Matt Estland in Phoenix.  I ate an extra large pizza by myself over a period of six hours and drank a lot of victory wine in Matt’s pool.

Fun Facts:

Food we brought with us for a day and a half: 4 candy bars and a can of Chef Boy.

I Found A Hole To Sleep In!

I left my parents house after Christmas and couch surfed with my bud Danger in flagstaff until January 8th.  I had some good times, some drunk times, and some cold times with Kate in Las Vegas.  Now I’m finally on my own in Joshua Tree, California!  Yesterday I drove around and tried to establish a lifestyle.

It is surprisingly easy to be homeless in Joshua Tree.  I found a free place to camp with some other climber hobos.     I didn’t get to meet them really because it was literally freezing last night but they seemed polite and welcoming and kinda shy (or maybe just conserving heat and energy).  The “campground” is an unmarked sort of road that is blocked by a climbing rope tied to a stick.  The best part about this climber reservation is that it is within walking distance of fresh water, food, flush toilets, wi-fi, a used book store and thrift shop, and two climbing stores.  Also, It’s about a 10 min drive from 500+ climbs and infinite bouldering opportunities    I just need to find a climbing partner and I may never have to leave.

The Quest for Wi-Fi and The Jelly Donut

On my first night in Joshua Tree I was looking for a place that was both warm, had wi-fi, and had accessible outlets.

McDonald’s: Fail. It had wi-fi but there were no outlets.  Well, there were outlets but they were 15 feet off the ground from its former days of glory when it had a Playplace.  I could have stemed up the window corner dihedral and used the outlet if I had an extension chord.  Future plan for sure.

Burger King: Fail.  Although, it lead to some vital information

Burger Slave: I wish we had wi-fi, I can sometimes reach the hotel’s internet across the street.  McDonald’s has wi-fi but no outlets.

Max: Ya, I’ve already been there… Thanks anyway.

Burger Slave: (looks at me, intuits and that I’m a homeless drifter and responds says completely judgement free) You know if you want to go someplace less nice than McDonald’s you can go to Jelly Donut.

Max: They have wi-fi? Awesome.

Burger Slave: Ya, good luck!

Jelly Donut: Great Success.  Jelly Donut is an un-apologetically recently converted gas station with chairs and tables probably stolen from an abandoned Wendy’s.  I got a raspberry donut that appeared to have been left out all night. Evidence: Frost.  Although, the wi-fi was fast and there were accessible outlets.  I hung around for a couple hours, waiting for the weather to warm up.

A few other homeless regulars filed in, mostly ex-military folk and/or conspiracy theorists that know Obama or the likely next president, Michelle Obama, was going to take their guns away.  I suggested that Obama probably secretly kept Bin Laden alive and that he probably had a better health care plan than we did.  This was accepted as fact.

It quickly became obvious that no one came here for the nasty donuts.  Everyone came to talk to Rosa.  The nicest Mexican-native american-Chinese woman on the planet.  I’m going to need to go back there.

Yosemite Rock Climbing Trip: Munginella


I read an article in National Geographic about my heros Dean Potter and Tommy Caldwell and their awesome Yosemite climbing adventures.   I thought, “I want to go to there.”  I left my summer internship at a plastic injection molding factory and called my buddy Danger who is always down for adventure.  He told me his sister Kirby was going too; I said “sweet”.  We planned on setting up top ropes and finding short easy bolted routes but…  Danger’s family’s friend Tony offered to let Kirby borrow a harness and shoes.  We left with a trad rack.  The trip’s dimensions had drastically changed.  We were geeking out as much as you might think.

Experience Levels:

Max can sport climb 5.10s pretty reliably and have followed someone climbing trad once.

Danger had bouldering experience and has lead sport a few times.  He did not know how to clean a route.

Kirby had never been climbing before.

Reading Material:

Yosemite Free Climbs and our invaluable copy of How To Rock Climb by John Long.  I cannot recommend John Long’s book enough.  It has super beta for everyone from beginners to experts.  We all read the book cover to cover in the car and were feeling much more confident.

Trip Report:

After 1 day 7hrs of driving we get to Yosemite

Realized we brought the tiny tent...

We get to Camp 4 around 5:30AM to get a campsite.  Why so early?

We received this dire warning from crazy guy who smelled like fish: ”There are thousands of people in the valley man.  Ya gotta believe me man there are thousands of people in the valley man.”  He offered more advice but it’s not funny in writing; ask me to do an impression.  Anyways he was right and a line to check in had already formed at 5:30AM.

Learning to Rock Climb

On our first day we organized all of our gear and Danger and I taught Kirby necessary climbing skills (knots, belaying, cleaning, back clipping, hand jamming, etc.).   Then we found a 5.4 route called Regular Route.  We practiced placing gear and got our multi-pitch tactics down.


Regular route (5.4)

Either the route has become overgrown since 2003 when our guidebook was written or we got horribly lost.  Oh ya, and Danger was mangled pretty good by an evil shrub.  It was getting dark so we decided to rappel down. We realized that we only brought 2 belay devices.  Luckily I knew what to do, double rappel.


Double Belay!

Now it was time for the big time, the dreaded Munginella (5.6).  I did not have much trouble getting up to the first belay tree.


Munginella (5.6)

I then belayed Danger and Kirby up to the first belay tree.  I then went in the wrong direction and went way off route to the right.


Oops, the wrong way.

Luckily, someone had recently installed solid bolt that people who went off route could use to pendulum back to where they are supposed to be.  At this point I was out of gear so I made my first anchor (4 equalized pieces) and performed my first ever legit hanging belay.


First ever hanging belay and anchor!

We could see the top-out point so Danger and I decided to leave Kirby at the first belay and proceed without her.  I made it to da top thanks to an ancient Friend cam.  I belayed Danger up without incident and then Danger belayed up Kirby.  Kirby climbed up 2 pitches straight like a superstar.  It was neat.  She made it to the top just as it got dark.


Still smiling

I cannot overemphasize how awesome Kirby was/is.  We left her tied to a tree for at least 2 hours and did not complain once.  I highly recommend Kirby.  Anyways, the hike down was pretty easy. We went the wrong way once but it was immediately obvious that it was not the trail, even in the dark.  I will never forget that day… Oh Dip! I wanna be back there!


Thanks for bein’ super awesome adventurin’ friends!


Thanks guys


Realized we brought the tiny tent…

Realized we brought the tiny tent...

Cheeseburger Cozie

Inspired by dontevenreply.com and 27bslash6.com I bother the people who have plenty of time on their hands, a knitting forum.

What I said

On my way to work in the morning, before I drop my children off at the mall, I like to buy a cheeseburger from my favorite fast food place so that I can smell its deliciousness all the way to work. But, by the time I get to the office the cheeseburger has become lukewarm! I was wondering if anyone had any advice about the best insulating yarn and weave pattern. Preferably something porous so that it can capture the cheeseburger smell.

Brian O’Blivion

What They Said

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

Wool? felted? Its a good idea :)

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

Well, I suppose cotton would soak up the burger grease and acquire a pleasant scent without shedding all over your breakfast…

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

You’d want something that would hold in the heat but absorb moisture so the steam doesn’t make your cheeseburger soggy. I vote for cotton in some kind of waffle textured stitch.

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

Bob, you have a strong resemblance to Jane Fonda in the ‘60’s. Amazing. Taking those hormones again?

Here’s a nice waffle stitch, a favorite of mine. :

I would try cotton worsted on a #8 or 9. You want some porosity to let out the steam. You can button or zipper the side of the cylinder like a tiny sweater.

This is not crazy. The original cozy is for teapots. Since joining Rav, I’ve seen soda glass cozies, coffee cup cozies, you-name-it. It’s a product of saving scraps and being a compulsive knitter.

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

so let me understand..it’s morning..you’re on the way to work..
( ♪ the sun so hot, I froze to death ♪ )
The kids are going to the mall….. not to school?
If the cheeseburger is for lunch, it’s going to be much less than lukewarm by then.
If it’s for breakfast, why not just go ahead and eat it while it’s hot and tasty… and still smells good?

Rather than have soggy buns..(very uncomfortable)….. I might try this ….link text

or invent cheeseburger aftershave or air freshener….maybe scratch-n-sniff cheeseburger pics ……
it could mean cheeseburger aroma anytime you want.
Your slogan could be ‘Let O’Blivion’s cheeseburger take you away’

reply to BrianOblivion’s post

Brian, has your wife gotten out of the basement? And are you a fan of Bob’s Burgers by any chance?

Thread Deleted

I thought a cheeseburger cozie was completely ridiculous and would be immediately found out.  Apparently cheeseburger cozies are a legitimate knitting project… Who knew?